Talking About Subak in the Headquarters of UNESCO in Paris

By Wayan Windia

FLIGHT to Singapore for 2.5 hours transited for a while and then flew again to Paris for 14 hours. It was not a tiring job especially having to sit in economy class flight. I am 70 years old. Because I was still passionate, I took the flight with pride. It is an honor to be invited to speak at the UNESCO Headquarters Building, discussing the subak (irrigation cooperative) system in Bali because it is UNESCO that previously recognized subak in Bali as a World Cultural Heritage (WCH).

Previously, I thought the peak of my career as a speaker about subak had ended after making presentation about subak values in the World Cultural Forum (WCF) two years ago. In fact, God still gives me the opportunity to continue my discussion about subak at the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris, France. Even though the allowance given by UNESCO was mediocre, I was still proud because I got spontaneous help from my colleagues in Bali that supported my struggle for preserving subak. I think, not many scientists have the opportunity to be invited to speak at the UNESCO Building.

When landing at General Charles de Gaulle Airport in a very cold morning, I had to be ready to join a very long line to pass through the immigration door. I should queue for almost an hour. Well, it is almost the same as the line in Indonesia. In the past, we had fuss in Bali because tourists were considered exhausted in the line of immigration after having long haul flight from Europe. Finally, we also have the same experience there. We should not spoil the tourists too much. Just do it mediocrely. If they have decided to come to Bali, surely they already understand and are ready to face all the obstacles. Never too much spoil tourists, while our people in the countryside are still in very poor condition.

On the way from the airport to the City of Paris, I saw the buildings are mediocre. Many are old. I think our development in Indonesia is not inferior to that in France. In Paris, there are many ancient and antique buildings, including the Eifel Tower. It happens because Paris (France) has a very long history, much longer than the history of our development in Indonesia. We must experience 350 years of occupation from the Europeans.

About plastic bags

Regarding the use of plastic bags, it seems that we are more advanced in Bali than Paris. There, if we buy food, bananas or souvenirs, it must be wrapped in a plastic bag. However, I am still obedient to culture without plastic bags, as in Bali. I rejected the plastic bag package. “No plastic bag please,” I said. They just nodded when I rejected the bag. “Oh, thank you,” he said. On General Garibaldi Boulevard where I stayed, I had no doubt embracing all the foods I bought without a bag.

On the protocol road, I witnessed one or two homeless men sleeping on the edge of the shop with thick and layered clothes. “Ah, it’s the same as in our country,” I murmured to myself. I observed the homeless for long time and in fact no one gives any alms. Everyone is indifferent. I think when can they get money for the sake of their life? Moreover, the vagrants can also be found on the edge of the UNESCO Building. They are two people, all are women. They alternately slept or sat with their hands raised. I noticed their face, it turned out that both of them are beautiful and young around 26 years old. Maybe they are descendants of Algeria. I thought, if they are just a little educated, and could be given makeover as easily as possible, they can become movie stars. Indeed their face is beautiful, classic and melancholy. Anything can happen if destiny wants. All of us walk on respective karma having been predestined by our ancestors who reincarnated. I saw at the UNESCO headquarters, there were no people that are as beautiful as the vagrants. Their eyes are glazed, their face is ovoid, their hair is black, and their skin is ivory-white. However, I did not see the shape of the vagrant’s body because they were sitting. Just look at his face.

Presentation in UNESCO Building

I have been preparing my power point to be presented for a little long. Then, I practiced the presentation, so that my English could look rather fluent, including after arriving in Paris, the day before I had to go to the podium, I was still practicing diligently. However, since the session started early in the morning was very late the presentation of the ministers invited to the session was a little long, so the subsequent congregations also delayed. I, who received a presentation in the afternoon, also started the session very late. Therefore, the available time became very limited.

The committee and moderator stated that I did not need to explain the power point. Simply display a maximum of five points of the most urgent images. Then, the moderator asked me about the subak system in Bali, until it was recognized by the UNESCO as a world heritage. After for only three questions or for almost 15 minutes, the time had run out. Then, I was replaced by another presenter. The last question of the moderator was why subak considered to be tangible can be considered to have intangible values?

On that question, I explained that the overlay of rice fields in Bali managed by subak is not just rice field. Behind the view of the rice fields, there are various rituals carried out by farmers as part of the application of the Tri Hita Karana philosophy. That is why UNESCO then recognized subak in Bali as a world heritage, with the title: Subak as Manifestation of the Tri Hita Karana Philosophy.

 *) The author is Chairman of the Center for Subak Research at Udayana University.